Navigating Exchange in Kyoto when you can’t speak Japanese!
By Milie MacCallum
A double degree in International Relations and Art History
2023 Semester 2, Exchange at Ritsumeikan University , Japan
My interest in Japan started only within the last few years, but has grown exponentially in depth and breadth. So I was elated to find out that I was accepted for exchange at Ritsumeikan University in Kyoto, Japan for my second semester of my fourth year at ANU. Before exchange, I considered myself someone who never gets homesick and will give anything a go enthusiastically. For example, before arriving in Japan for my exchange, I backpacked around Asia for a month and felt great about the experience. But when I ‘officially’ moved in to Kyoto, I was hit with a huge wave of homesickness. I think there is also a tricky relationship between Japanese citizens and foreigners which made it hard for me to feel welcome in Japan, especially as a beginner level in Japanese language. Honestly, it has been truly challenging at times. But as I approach the final months of my exchange, I can reflect with gratitude and see that this has been a profoundly rewarding experience. The connections I forged and the adventures I created turned my time in Kyoto into an unforgettable chapter of my life.
The Challenge of Being a Beginner
I started learning Japanese while in Kyoto, and thanks to my interest in learning languages and exposure trying to learn to others while travelling, I have learned some parts relatively quickly. But I am still totally a beginner and cannot hold a conversation, despite how much I wish I could! Learning Japanese for the first time in a country known for its complex language is undoubtedly a challenge. Especially when I soon discovered English translations are not readily available in many places, and English is rarely spoken here. Also, Japan's relationship with foreigners, while nuanced, presented its own set of obstacles. Yet, my decision to study at Ritsumeikan University proved to be positive as I found a supportive community within my university accommodation, and within groups of students who are interested in being friends with international students. I have been really lucky to make Japanese friends who are kind, welcoming and patient with my language level! I think that the relationships I have formed with people during this experience, as well has staying in touch with my family and closest friends from home, have been crucial in coping with cultural challenges.
Coping with Challenges
Before living in Japan, I had never experienced such intense homesickness and loneliness. I was so grateful and happy to finally be living my dream of exploring Japan, so I was shocked that I could fall into such unhappiness. It all felt very confusing. To cope, I made the decision to get out of my accomodation and explore at least one new place or one new thing each week. This included visits to stunning temples, serene lakes, and invigorating hikes alone or with friends. Sometimes, it was just trying a small local Izakaya and making an effort to talk to the people there (even if it’s just through google translate!). Once, through doing this, I actually became friends with an elderly couple who not only bought me dinner, but also gifted me a free ticket on their ferry to an abandoned island. I had a great time exploring the island of Tomogashima and wouldn’t have known it existed without making an effort to meet strangers!
Connecting with Nature and Community
I think my highlight was a week where I skipped uni to volunteer as a beekeeper in the south of Japan. While I volunteered in Tokushima on the bee Farm, my host Aki opened a window into the true essence of rural Japan.The week-long experience of living in the Japanese countryside and building a deep friendship with my Aki allowed me to connect with the language, customs, and the profound beauty of Japan's natural surroundings. We cooked each other cultural meals, and I learned how to cook a delicious Ramen and Champon which I continue to cook today! Aki took me on a memorable hike up a hidden hill to a beautiful mountain top shrine. I love hiking and have hiked all around New Zealand, so I thought this would be a breeze. But it was super steep and challenging and I was shocked that elderly hikers were even overtaking me! But I was rewarded with a spectacular view of Japan. I could see across the whole area of Tokushima, with all the mountains covered with trees in vibrant autumn colors. The sky was filled with fluffy clouds straight out of a Spirited Away, sweet little birds were everywhere around the shrine and the air was pure. And overall I felt so happy to be in Japan. So after this experience I ensured to hike or visit natural spaces at least once a week, and after many months, I can reflect and feel grateful for this revelation because I have now seen so many lovely hidden natural spaces away from the busy tourist areas, and my homesickness was virtually erased. And it’s a practice I can’t wait to continue when I return to Australia. I have built so much gratitude for my home country while away.
The Importance of Relationships
When I reflect on exchange so far with my friends and family, I think my biggest revelation has been how much I value connection to others. I truly learned how to be happy while alone and make time for myself by living in Japan. So that on the flip side of this growth, I have felt the importance of authentic and close friendships, and how many experiences have been totally enhanced by sharing them with others. I learned that while magnificent temples, delicious food, and cool accommodation are great, the true richness of my exchange came from the relationships I built and learning from others. Engaging with others, learning from them, and deepening these connections enhanced every aspect of my time in away from Australia. It reinforced to me that relationships are the key to unlocking the full potential of any international experience.
In conclusion, my exchange experience in Kyoto, Japan, was a journey of self-discovery, overcoming challenges, and embracing the beauty of connections to others and nature. To ANU students considering studying abroad, I encourage you to absolutely be brave and do it. Try to see challenges as opportunities, to break away from routine, and to build connections and learn from strangers anywhere you can. Japan, with its rich history, beautiful landscapes and variety of people, has been a strong growth experience and reminder that the most profound lessons often come from the people we meet along the way.